Is “Genuine” leather genuine? What’s the difference between Top and Full Grain leather? Before you buy your next wallet or couch, let’s dispel some common myths and dive into what these leather grades mean.
There’s a lot of information and a lot of misinformation about the various types of leather.
As someone who has worked with leather professionally for over 6 years and made thousands of wallets, even I was confused conducting this research.
Many websites have conflicting information which made this process difficult.
My hope is that consumers who take the time to inform themselves with this guide can make better purchasing decisions.
Table of Contents It Starts with a cowhide The Grades of Leather Top Grain Leather - Simple is Best Corrected Grain Leather - Good as full grain? Split Grain Leather - The Leather Leftovers Bonded Leather - Scraps and Slurry Comparing Leather: A Wood Analogy Which Leather is right for you?
It Starts with a cowhide The Grades of Leather Top Grain Leather - Simple is Best Corrected Grain Leather - Good as full grain? Split Grain Leather - The Leather Leftovers Bonded Leather - Scraps and Slurry Comparing Leather: A Wood Analogy Which Leather is right for you?
It Starts with a Cowhide
All cowhides (also called rawhide) range in thickness between 6 and 10mm. This thickness isn’t usable for much -especially not wallets or book covers.
So it's split into usable sections. Here's an example of how a cowhide passes through a splitter and is made into top and bottom cuts.
When we order our leather from Horween, we specify the thickness that we want. The leather thickness we use for most of our goods is between 1.2 and 1.6mm.
Before tanning and processing, the tannery takes each cowhide and “splits” it. Hides need to be split in the wet stage to achieve the final leather weight. If the leather isn't split and shaved, the weights (thickness) would be uneven through the full side of the processed leather and the chemicals, dyes, and/or waxes would not penetrate into the leather properly during the retan/color/fat liquoring stage.
They take the hide and shear off the top cut for us. This portion contains the full grain of the hide and that's what we make our products out of.
The bottom cut is used for lower grades of leather which I’ll discuss later below.
The Grades of Leather
There isno official standard for grading leather. Most tanneries use their own proprietary systems of grading based on cosmetic imperfections - not quality.
For example, Wickett & Craig use the following grades: standard, utility, and special to describe the number of blemishes and marks on their hides.
However, there are 3 common categories in which we can classify leather-based on how a hide is finished and which section of the cowhide is used.
These leather categories are used interchangeably throughout the industry by manufacturers and retailers alike.
The leather grades are as follows (listed in order of quality):
- Top Grain Leather, which includes:
- Full Grain Leather
- Corrected Grain Leather
- Split Grain Leather (sometimes called "Genuine Leather")
- Bonded Leather
Take a look at this cross-section of a cowhide. You can see where each leather grade comes from when the cowhide is split.
Noticeably absent in this diagram is Bonded Leather - an abhorrent concoction of leather slurry I will cover later.
Top Grain Leather - Simple is Best
"Top grain can be either a full-grain leather or corrected grain leather."
John Culliton, Horween Leather Company
Full Grain Leather
In simplest terms, if you’re looking for heirloom quality leather grades you want to start with top-grain leather which includes Full Grain and Corrected Grain leathers.
Full Grain Leather at a Glance
Common Uses:
Full-grain leather is often used in goods and products where customers seek a higher-end experience. People who really want to put their own mark on the product through patina and everyday use.
Characteristics of Full Grain Leather:
- Marbling or fat wrinkles that look like shaded bands
- Variations in the grain and coloring
- Scars and “imperfections”
- Pigments and dyes will often be in varying shades across the leather
- In some leathers hair follicles are present and can be seen.
What is Full Grain Leather?
Full-grain is a side of leather with the complete grain intact. The surface hasn’t been altered except (in almost all cases) the hair has been removed.
This leathercan include natural markings such as scarring, blemishes, insect bites, branding, and stretch marks. But these markings are considered the signature of fine leather goods.
A common misconception is that these types of markings are “defects.” Instead, think of these as proof of natural origin. These markings incorporate the life of the animal.The absence of natural markings often means that the leather is of lesser quality.
Another feature of full grain leather is thatit breathes.
The leather will absorb moisture and oils from handling it over time. And this leather will patina beautifully.
Full-grain leather is also very durable.
Since the grain is fully intact, its fibers contribute to its strength. It’s not uncommon for a leather wallet to outlast the threads used to stitch it together!
Types of Full Grain Leather
Horween Derby or Dublin Leathers
This is another beautiful leather that is tumbled to produced rich character and textures within the grain. It features a subtle pull-up and ages wonderfully.
Vegetable Tan Leather (can also be called tooling leather)
You’ve probably seen this type of leather. It’s notoriously hard to work with because it doesn’t have a protective finish. It patinas like CRAZY often turning dark brown after a short period. It absorbs everything in its environment.
Corrected Grain Leather - Good as full grain?
Next on my list is Corrected Grain leather.
Corrected Grain is a contentious issue with leather workers and fans of leather goods alike because many people consider this to be inferior to full grain. The truth is, Corrected Grain and Full Grain both come from the same part of the cowhide.
Top Grain Leather at a Glance
Common Uses:
Very common with accessories, upholstery and footwear categories. Nubuck is often used for boots and higher-end work gloves. Smooth corrected grains are often seen used with formal footwear.
Characteristics of Top Grain Leathers:
- Marbling or fat wrinkles are diminished as sanding and pigmentation conceals these properties
- Variations in the grain and coloring disappear
- Scars and “imperfections” are sometimes sanded away
- Often uniform in color, no variation or depth of color (some exceptions for example Chromexcel has wonderful pullup effects)
- Leather is resistant to stains/spills
- Less breathability
- Somewhat waxy feel
What is Corrected Grain Leather?
People can confuse the "top grain" and "full-grain" leather grades as different splits of leather, but according to John Culliton from Horween: "top grain can be either a full-grain leather or corrected grain leather."
It simply means that this leather is from the top cut of the hide when it is split. This is the same section where full-grain is split.
So how is Corrected Grain leather different than Full Grain leather?
In a nutshell, tanneries will remove “imperfections” or add varying degrees of corrections to achieve a desired look or functionality.
Many big manufacturers (especially in apparel and footwear) cannot have cosmetic variances in their products – therefore they choose top grain leathers for quality, but also to have a consistent appearance in their leather goods.
Two examples are Horween's Snuffed Suede leather and Chromexcel.
Snuffed Suede leather is heavily corrected to create a Nu-Buk effect (heavy tracking) whereas Chromexcel is “corrected”, through a process that is more of a burnishing operation. This allows Horween to hand-stain the leather. The burnishing operation on Chromexcel prepares the leather for finishing by opening up the grain and allowing the stains to penetrate the leather.
During this corrective process, the pores of the leather are sealed. This means the leather can be easier to clean and doesn’t absorb as many oils and moisture. It also means that patina can take a longer time to develop and there’s less breathability compared to full grain.
Some folks consider corrected grain less durable than full-grain because of the sanding during the correcting process. It's a weak argument, and in my experience, I haven’t found any durability issues with corrected grain.
Types of Corrected Grain Leather
Horween Chromexcel Leather
Chromexcel is a trademark tanning process from the Horween Leather Company. A combination tanned leather that undergoes at least 89 separate processes taking 28 working days.
A corrected grain leather with dramatic pull-up and soft waxy feel. Even though these can be pigmented with color, they will still Patina dramatically over time.
John Culliton from Horween says "The whole world thinks Chromexcel is full grain because when you look closely at it, you can see the grain. But we correct it, we just correct it so little that we leave part of the grain on the leather."
Smooth Corrected Grain
These types of top grain leathers are popular with formal shoes and can be buffed to an eerie and glass-like appearance.
Embossed Corrected Grain
Usually an imitation print is stamped over top using a plating press using high heat and pressure. Some top grains have leather grain texture printed on top after it’s been sanded away.
Other types of embossing include pebble, hair cell, exotic and man-made.
If you’ve seen alligator or snake leather, it’s usually top grain leather with an embossed print.
Nubuck
These top grain leathers are sanded and buffed to a matte finish. The have a fuzzy feel – like suede but not as “hairy.”
These leathers hide scratches well and are less prone to cracking when repeatedly exposed to the elements. A lot of shoe and boot manufacturers favor nubuck for it’s durability and appearance.
Split Grain Leather - the Leather Leftovers
The next category of leather goods in our grading scale is split-grain leather. This is where it's common to see durability and quality issues.
Split Grain Leather at a Glance
Common Uses:
Almost all leather goods you'd see in a big box store are made from finished split leather (aka genuine leather). Check for the stamp that says so.
Characteristics of Split Grain Leather:
- Marbling or fat wrinkles, variations, scars, and "imperfections are removed during the corrective process.
- Pigments and dyes will often be a uniform color,
- No variation or depth of color
- Leather is resistant to stains/spills
- Zero breathability
- Plastic feel
- Not durable
What is Split Grain Leather?
You know that part of the leather that gets shaved or split off at the bottom? That’s considered split grain.
It sometimes has a nappy appearance and doesn’t contain any of the hide’s grain. It’s created from the fibrous part of the hide that’s left over.
Split grains are the leftovers.
Split grain leather doesn’t have any of the hide’s natural markings and products made from this material won’t stand the test of time.
Finished split leather is often coated with polymer and embossed to make it look like natural leather. Then it’s stamped with the words “Genuine Leather” to fool you into thinking its good quality.
Types of Split Leather
Genuine Leather (also called Bicast)
Finished split leather is often referred to as “Genuine” leather simply because it’s a marketing person’s strategy designed to fool customers. When you see the word “Genuine” you think of quality and the “real deal.”
Unfortunately, this is total garbage.
Genuine leather is often several layers of split leather bonded together with a thin polyurethane or vinyl layer to give it strength and a uniform appearance. The backing is generally not visible to the end consumer.
These areheavily processed off-cuts, that are the least breathable and will never develop a patina. Unless you count surface-cracking and falling apart patina.
And the feel is almost always like plastic.
And the smell?
Ever walk into a crappy shoe store and get hit by that trademark fake leather scent? That’s how you know you’re surrounded by genuine leather.
Suede
Suede is well known for its signature textured feel and “napped” look. Often made from lamb, goat, deer, or calfskins. Suede is less durable, thin, and absorbs liquid very easily.
Bonded Leather - Scraps and Slurry
Welcome to the last stop on our tour of the leather grades. The absolute rock-bottom of the leather grades.
Bonded Leather at a Glance
Common Uses:
Cheaply made bags, office supplies, books, and upholstery on furniture.
Characteristics of Bonded Leather:
- Made from a combination of PVC, fiber content, and as little as 20% leather
- Grain and appearance will be uniform since it’s artificially embossed and spray painted
- Will not breath
- Feels like plastic
- Smells artificial
- Will never patina
- Will de-laminate and fall apart in a short time
What is Bonded Leather?
This is simply the lowest leather grade available. It’s the hot dog of leathers. Essentially leather dust is mixed with vinyl and turned into a sheet.
Shreds of leather from leftover scrap are mulched and mixed into a pulp slurry, then spread on a fiber cloth or paper backing with a polyurethane adhesive.
This finished sheet is then spray painted and/or embossed with a print.
In some countries where bonded leather is manufactured, this type of “leather” is made with as little as 20% actual leather fibers.
Bonded leather could be considered more environmentally friendly since it uses recycled bits of leather that would otherwise be disposed of.
But then you have to think of all the crappy wallets and belts being thrown away due to quality.
Comparing Leather Grades: A Wood Analogy
Full Grain Leather
If full-grain leather was compared to a type of wood, it would be a walnut table with a live edge.
This slab of wood is prized for its living edge which shows the story of the tree it came from. Each table is one of a kind and many "imperfections" remain in place.
Corrected Grain Leather
If corrected grain leather was compared to a type of wood, it would be a solid and durable, but mass-produced oak dining room table. Well-constructed and consistent.
It can be lightly corrected or heavily sanded, buffed, and varnished wood that is well-suited for commercial purposes.
Split Grain Leather
If split-grain leather was compared to a type of wood, it would be similar to composite or engineered wood.
Not a true piece of wood but something built from multiple layers of thin wood that wouldn’t otherwise be used. Quality can vary widely, engineered wood is not as durable as solid wood. It can become chipped or de-laminated.
Bonded Leather
If bonded leather was compared to a type of wood, it would be cheap particle board.
Particle board is not real wood but made up of wood chips and sawdust. Bonded Leather is not real leather.
Which Leather is right for you?
If you were paying attention, there are two leather grades that are undoubtedly the best quality: Full and Corrected grain.
These grades of leather are both sheared from the same durable grain and will patina over time. Imperfections and personality that come from full-grain is a personal preference, but I would have it no other way.
I love celebrating the personality that comes from each cowhide and the dramatic patina that every customer makes using their Popov Leather goods.
Do you have a story about your experiences with genuine or bonded leather? Was there a time you bought something full-grain and it has developed crazy character? Share below! 👇
FAQs
What are the 4 grades of leather? ›
There are generally considered four types of leather quality grades, listed from best to worst: full grain leather, top grain leather, genuine leather, and bonded leather.
Is grade 7000 leather Good? ›This leather is painstakingly chosen from the top third of all hides and then buffed to a smooth perfection, for an exceptional softness and pliancy. The look, feel, and even aroma of grade 7000 leather will instantly catch all of the senses for an opulent, all-in-one experience.
What is the best grade of leather? ›Full grain leather is the highest quality grade of leather that money can buy. It comes from the top layer of the hide and includes all of the natural grain.
Is grade 1 leather good? ›Is grade 1 better than grade 4 or is grade 4 better than grade 1? First, all top grain leathers are good. They are the most durable part of a leather hide, the first cut. The differences in the grades can be found in the finishing of the hides, the origin of the cows and of course the price.
What is the most sought after leather? ›Why is crocodile leather so expensive and where can I buy genuine crocodile leather? One of 23 crocodile species in the world is used to make crocodile leather. Crocodile leather is a distinctive sort of leather that makes up less than 1% of the worldwide leather industry as a whole.
Why is Italian leather the best? ›The premium leather that Italy is renowned for is the full-grain, vegetable-tanned kind. Removed from the outermost layer of the animal's skin — the most durable part of the hide — full-grain leather has an unaltered grain structure and is subsequently extremely robust.
What is the most durable leather grade? ›Full Grain Leather
Full grain is the most durable and resistant to wear. In most cases, products made from full grain leather last longer than the others also because the full grain leather does not tear. The two common full grain leathers are vegetable tanned leather and distressed leather.
2000 Grade Leather
Palliser Leather 2000 is a gently buffed Semi-Corrected Leather, providing a flawless finish while still maintaining a soft, natural grain and texture.
Leather 7000 is, quite simply, the very finest leather you can pick for your home theater seat. This exclusive, luxury material is a type of top-grain leather that is painstakingly hand-picked from the top 30% of all cow hides, chosen for premium look and texture.
What leather is the cheapest? ›Bonded leather is the lowest (and the cheapest) grade of leather. Common Uses: Making furniture, bookbinding, and various fashion accessories. Though there are four basic types of leather, you can find a wide range of options based on the percentage of organic material, durability, and the finishing process.
What grade of leather is best for sofas? ›
Royalin, full grain and top grain leathers will always be the best leather for furniture, but they will also come in as the most expensive of the leather options. Other styles, like bi-cast, bonded and faux leather, offer a similar look at a much lower price point.
What leather does Gucci use? ›Many vintage Gucci products were constructed with pigskin, calf and exotic leathers imported from different parts of the world. Today's Gucci leather is the ultra-luxurious Guccissima leather, meaning “the most Gucci” in Italian. It was introduced in 2006 by then Creative Director Frida Giannini.
What is better top grain or full-grain leather? ›Full-grain leather is the strongest and most durable leather. Additionally, since the grain is so tight, it resists moisture very well. Over time, full-grain leather will look nicer and nicer and develop a patina from being handled. The next best—and second strongest—leather is called "top-grain" leather.
What kind of leather does not scratch? ›Pigmented leathers typically have the strongest performance characteristics of all leathers, proving resistance to scratching, fading, staining and abrasion.
Is top grain leather better than split leather? ›Split leather is found on the opposite spectrum of quality, and the life span of split leather on areas subjected to stretching or movement, is not as good as top grain or full grain leather. Split leather is found on the bottom part of the leather, after the leather has been split.
Is genuine leather the lowest quality? ›Genuine leather doesn't just mean that the product is made of real leather (which it is), but it also means it is the lowest quality of all products made out of real leather. Genuine leather generally doesn't last as long or look as nice as higher-quality leather.
What is the toughest leather for a couch? ›Pigmented leather is the most durable with a consistent surface appearance, while aniline leather is more natural looking, but less resistant to soiling. The third type, semi-aniline leather, is somewhere between on both counts.
What color leather is most popular? ›The most popular colors in leather furniture are typically black and brown.
Does leather look better with age? ›Leather has very interesting characteristics. With time it becomes softer, more malleable, and develops a beautiful patina, or color change.
How can you tell high quality leather? ›An item of good leather quality will usually have quality stitching to match. Flaws in stitching, hardware, and lining can indicate inferior leather. Pay attention to how it feels and looks. If the leather feels wrong (hard, plasticky, or thin), it probably is.
Does Louis Vuitton use Italian leather? ›
Vachetta is untreated Italian leather generally used on luggage and luxury handbags such as Coach and Louis Vuitton.
Which country has best quality leather? ›Leatherproducts have always been considered as one of the most outstanding items inthe world. The leather industry in Turkey outshines the others because of itsunique quality of the raw materials and its production process.
Which brand is famous for leather? ›One of the most famous leather brands in the USA is Capri Holdings Limited which was established in 1981 by Michael Kors. This company is best known for its products such as handbags, accessories, and apparel, etc. Leather products that they produce also include shoes, jackets and sandals.
What is the most waterproof leather? ›Full-grain leather and top grain leather are often the most water-resistant and durable options, because they are crafted from the toughest sections of the animal hide (the exterior section) — and these properties translate into the end material.
Which animal leather is best quality? ›Ostrich - Not only the finest but also the most durable leather.
Is smooth or grain leather better? ›Smooth leather is definitely more luxurious and looks better on the skin than pebbled leather does. Additionally, it's also durable – which is great news if you're prone to being rough with your belongings!
What quality is 100% leather? ›In other words, much more straightforward synonyms to the term “Genuine Leather” would be “True Leather”, “Real Leather”, or “100% Leather”. In short, genuine only means that something is actually made of leather but does not infer high quality.
What is Category 20 leather? ›Category 20 Leather
DREAM (Protecta) leather is a natural grain and the thickness is from 1.4 – 1.6 mm. The principal characteristic of this leather is the soft hand and light grease touch even if the hide is a slightly buffed in ordinary process with light protection, to keep medium performance.
Buffalo leather has an epidermal layer up to three times thicker than cow hide which means that it is extremely strong and durable. The buffalo hides are not stretched during the tanning process, unlike cow hide, and therefore they are thicker and more resistant to tearing.
What is napa 11000 leather? ›PREMIUM TOP GRAIN ITALIAN NAPPA LEATHER 11000
Authentic Italian leather is cured using natural tanning methods, and increases in appearance over time. All Nappa leather is hand selected from highly regarded Italian tanneries to ensure the best possible quality and appearance.
What is the softest leather in the world? ›
Lambskin is the softest sort of leather available since it originates from an animal that has not fully matured, unlike other types of hide. Its delicate, airy layered structure gives it an incredibly smooth, velvet-like touch.
What is class 1 leather? ›Number 1 premium leathers are always full grain. The surface of the hide is unaltered, without any buffing or sanding. Full grain leather retains any natural marks on the hide that the animal received during life, such as scars from fencing, stretch marks and wrinkles.
What leather to buy for beginner? ›- Top-Grain. Think of top-grain leather as full-grain leather that's a little more polished. ...
- Bi-Cast Leather. Have you ever seen a used piece of leather furniture that looks like it's “peeling”? ...
- Nubuck Leather.
Good quality real leather will smell slightly earthy and even a bit sweet.
Which is better calf or cow leather? ›Generally speaking, calf leather is durable, especially for its weight and thickness. While thinner in variable, calfskin has a tighter, more even grain and because the fibers are closer together — ounce for ounce, calfskin is said to have more tensile strength than cowhide.
What color leather couch is timeless? ›If you want timeless furniture, go for a timeless color. Yes, a color! A blue, yellow, or black sofa will be a lot more timeless than the popular gray. The gray sofas of today are just the brown leather sofas of 10 years ago.
What is the most popular color for leather sofa? ›1. Brown Leather Sofa – A Popular Choice. It's not hard to see why brown is the most popular colour for a leather sofa. It offers a wonderful palette, from tans through to rich chocolates and lends itself beautifully to classic sofa styles, such as a leather Chesterfield like the Harrington.
How can you tell if a leather sofa is good quality? ›How can you tell if it's a real leather sofa? For starters, by touch—real leather typically feels uneven, with “fat wrinkles” under the surface. Rough edges, a rich smell, and hide markings are other indicators that a leather piece is genuine.
What leather does Kate Spade use? ›Leather-quality
Many Kate Spade products are made with an exterior material called saffiano leather, which is tough to break or even get dirty as it is water-resistant and scratch-proof – a characteristic that will stand the test of time.
Louis Vuitton uses different leathers throughout its range of designer bags, including vachette leather, EPI leather, Taurillon leather, and Empreinte leather. The most popular leather the brand is known for using is Vachetta leather, which can be notorious to maintain and develop a patina over time.
What leather does Chanel use? ›
They also design handbags in calfskin, goatskin and exotics (to name a few). However, a few years ago, Chanel made the decision to concentrate predominantly on Lambskin and Caviar, which is why their seasonal designs will host one of these leathers.
Which is the best leather in the world? ›You could in fact argue that Horween leather is the world's best leather! Horween Leather is named after the tannery where it is produced- The Horween Leather Company. It was founded in 1905 and for more than 100 years and five generations their goal has been to make the world's best leather.
Is Italian leather better than full grain leather? ›One of the hallmarks of good quality Italian leather is that they use full grain hides and process them in a way that produces a softer, more pliable leather than other methods of vegetable tanning. This is great for products that you want to be made of soft leather.
Does top grain leather peel or crack? ›Both explained to 10Investigates that top grain leather can peel. The applied color or protected layer can flake off over time, but typically it looks more like smearing. They said body and hair oils, hair products and cleaning agents can be to blame.
Why should you not wear leather? ›Skins are preserved with toxic chemicals.
Animal skin is turned into finished leather by the application of a variety of dangerous substances, including mineral salts, formaldehyde, coal-tar derivatives, and various oils, dyes, and finishes—some of them cyanide-based.
Deerskin. Due to the thorny nature of the animal's natural habitats, deerskin is one of the toughest leathers available. The physical structure of deerskin leather is different than other types of skins. Its elongated interwoven fibers give it an extremely high shear strength and abrasion resistance.
What is the highest grade leather for a sofa? ›Full grain leather comes from the top layer of the hide and is considered to be of the highest quality. It is durable and aesthetically exquisite with visible natural grains.
What is the highest grade of leather for furniture? ›Top-grain leather is one the most elegant, timeless kinds of leather you can buy for your home or office. Top-grain leather, comprised of the hide that's just below the animal's hair, contains the strongest, most durable part of the cow hide.
How can you tell good quality leather? ›An item of good leather quality will usually have quality stitching to match. Flaws in stitching, hardware, and lining can indicate inferior leather. Pay attention to how it feels and looks. If the leather feels wrong (hard, plasticky, or thin), it probably is.
Which country is famous for leather? ›China is the largest producer and exporter of leather and leather products. Approximately 4 billion square feet of leather is produced by the Chinese leather industry every year, which is more than two times the production of Brazil.
What leather is the softest? ›
Lambskin leather provides a luxurious feel. It is the softest and thinnest leather available, and its suppleness and smoothness is appreciated in the creation of gloves for competition.
What color leather furniture is best? ›The most popular colors in leather furniture are typically black and brown. Going into detail with the personality of colors can help you decide how you will choose the colors in your living space. Blacks usually will work best as an accent color but should never be used as the primary color in a room.